OUGD601: Vogue by the Decades (1960s)

(Vogue by the Decades) the 1960’s 

Youth culture erupted in the 1960’s, starting an anti-establishment, often working class movement, expressed through protest and fashion. This societal influence also overturned the predefined conventions of fashion, as well as how we should represent dress in a magazine. The intention of the clothes were to create maximum impact, within miniature proportions and by using photography as an aid showcase the vitality of the underground culture shift. 

Naturally, Vogue has deep routes in high society and has kept that part of their heritage as the magazine has matured. The wealthy and well-married with deep routes in ‘society’ (e.g.: from America’s ‘top’ families, the elite) were featured in the pages with images of their real life fairytale lives. The daughters of the elite were brought up with refinery and money, so could afford the trends presented to them in a magazine which was intended to appeal, just for them.  (When considering a target audience, something so far from that target audience fantasy/idealism must be a factor???) Wearing designer clothes and vacationing to exotic places they reinforce the aspiration of the fashion images also being produced at the time, yet they are living in the fantasy and reinforcing how we are only aspiring. Naturally this offspring has remarkable taste so Vogue documents their creative lifestyle in their issues, showcasing ‘real style’ and introducing living examples of the looks they are showcasing. ’Socialites’ or then known ‘beautiful people’ are still mentioned by Vogue even in 2017. 

’The Youth Quakers’ as reported by Vogue (baby boomer generation) were reportedly 9million people in the US alone under 24 reported Vogue in 1965, whom most of which shared a common mentality and new way in how to dress identifiably. That kind of energy fed into the fashion and influenced further ‘style icons’ such as Brigtte Bardot, Jane Birkinn, Catherine Deneuve, Fancoise Hardy and Penelope Tree. 

Designers were obsessed with perfecting their work, influenced by other icons such as Coco Chanel so eventually became masters of one particular trade mark. Courreges who’s ‘cookie cutter A-line skirt’ influenced the era, with documentary photography confirming that the A-line was a definable look of the 1960’s working class and subcultures. As the 1960’s went on the shape moved get again to more swinging designs, embracing popular activities such as dancing, which would benefit from movement in fabric and details.

The US Space launch was a huge moment of history in the 1960’s, with Vogue declaring it ‘Space Age’ in 1961 by creating space age inspired editorials and full magazines. The space age look many now possibly reflect nostalgia however, at the time the use of neon over-aggregated makeup and mirroring had never been done before in history so helped define the look of the time for todays generations. (We can see how they perceived the future back then).  Designers were influenced by architecture, showing off the body and creating living art with the images they create. Pierre Cardin says “We are entering the world of tomorrow. The obsession with the future and creating these fantasy lands was identifiable in the fashion photography and editorials of the time, using increased budget and artistic concept to creatively direct an enchanting story. Dianna Vreeland had an eye for the exotic and was inspired between the cross over between reality and fantasy. After becoming editor in 1963 she hired pools of young photographic talent, and sent them across the globe for her exotic editorials. “She would send them to all corners of the globe with a suitcase packed full of fashion, and a poetic brief’ says Vogue when discussing Vreeland (note: Vogue fired Vreeland for exactly this). Vreeland’s obsession was creating other-worldy experiences demanded a high budget, but was a gateway for young girls wanting to experience utopia and explore fantasy. The unrealistic combinations of fashion and location haven’t been seen since the early illustrations.

The hippy mentality didn’t always wash in fashion, but its bohemian and folklore aesthetic did and appeared in countless editorials. (It is interesting to consider what the real aesthetic of the 1960’s was by someone who was 24 or under in that era?) The mentality at the time was all about love and freedom of expression. A real social uprising, especially when fuelled with drugs and events such as Woodstock, which itself has become a stereotype now when referring to the 1960’s aesthetic. Not everyone in the 1960’s went to Woodstock…